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Thomas Keller is a man who needs no introduction. I think that a restaurant like The French Laundry or Taillevent, any of the great restaurants around the world and certainly there are many, many, many of them are restaurants that are experiences certainly. Theres two ways of looking at it, and I look at it both ways. Were all in it together, and we all have to support one another. Two years later, Keller opened Bouchon Bakery in Yountville and started his own wine label, Modicum. Keller spent the next three summers at La Rive in Catskill, where he learned to source produce locally, growing many of his own vegetables, and even trying to kill and dress small game, an experience that gave him greater respect for those who produce the food we eat. Of course, when you butt heads with the owner, ultimately the owners going to throw you out and thats what he did. In school, were there particular teachers you remember who had an impact on you? Im very proud to have been part of this. But in retrospect it was beautiful. We can all cook. They had saved their money and they opened a restaurant called the Cobbley Nob. In 2015 we finally reached the podium, the first time the Americans have ever been on the podium in France. And luxury to me is not having to make a choice, having somebody guide me through an experience thats going to result in something that is memorable. In your book you tell a story about rabbits, and what you learned. And some friends of mine, who were very influential in my move, were moving to California and they said, Come to California and try it out. At the same time a gentleman named Bill Wilkinson, who I had a brief conversation with about four years earlier, he was opening a hotel in L.A. called Checkers. Thomas Keller: It was. The specific details of the recipe do matter. So Bill is then taking his expertise and skill to L.A., bought a hotel downtown, renamed it Checkers, and brought in me. Armed with his investors contributions, Keller secured a bank loan and a federal small business loan. I wonder where that ambition came from to be the best, and why didnt you decide to go to school for that? If you could be more efficient than the person next to you, then you could have more time to learn what you wanted to learn, to continue to grow and continue to evolve, continue to progress. Youre only doing it because you love the person and because youre responsible for the person and because thats what you do. From the beginning, did you have the idea of doing a tasting menu, rather than a long menu of choices? We have to give them training. Located down the street from The French Laundry, it serves moderately priced French bistro fare, with Bouchon Bakery opening next door a few years later (in 2006 Keller opened a branch of the bakery in the Time Warner Center in Manhattan). He loved food. As I grew older, I realized the benefit of a good education, and I continue to try to educate myself today. So I was focused on that. We fell to tenth. Thomas Keller: Well, by the time they were divorced, my two oldest brothers were already out of the house. June 13, 2007 FOR someone who works in a restaurant, watching a rat try to become a chef might seem like just another day at work. So if you dont want to be repetitive in what youre doing, you probably dont want to really be a cook. Now our core values can be related to a lot of different people some of them defining the same way, others not necessarily but they understand them. I said, Im never going to do that again. A sports franchise kind of mentality as well as a militaristic kind of mentality, because we do have and the same in the military you have hierarchy. My grandmother when I lived with my grandmother we had the milkman that came. Of course, when it tries to jump forward, Im holding a leg. Its the one hit wonders that are one hit wonders. And we thought, Wow, theres 2,000 people there every night. You just never know. In 1986 he became co-owner and executive chef of the original Fleur de Lys in San Francisco. So there was just the three of us and then along came my younger sister when she remarried. So he wrote a check to the New York tax authorities to clear us up, which allowed me to get a bank loan. We were very honored. That sounds wonderful. The sandwich resembles a typical BLT, with the addition of a fried egg. One of the things that I dont believe we do enough of is to help our veterans, our servicemen and women. [1], In 2005, he was awarded the three-star rating in the inaugural Michelin Guide for New York City for his restaurant Per Se, and in 2006, he was awarded three stars in the inaugural Michelin Guide to the San Francisco Bay Area for The French Laundry. Testosterone is raging and youre with all these its a group. It was the Americans on the podium. Thomas Keller: We love to do Thanksgiving. So we had to have a commercial bank loan. Could I interact better with those around me who influence our restaurants? You know, learn how to cut brunoise, learn how to peel an onion, learn how to slice. I caught my breath and I said of course I thanked him very much and I said, One of the things that I want to assure you of is, again, its great to achieve this recognition, but now its our responsibility to make sure that the guests that come to our restaurant have that experience. So the morning sous-chef is a very, very important position, somebody that typically has had great experience in the restaurant that hes working in. In the next few years, Keller would pursue his interest in French cooking, developing close relationships with the cooks and proprietors of French restaurants in his own country while applying for jobs in France. Ive had some extraordinary honors in my life. And of course Bill Wilkinson was very influential in the hotel world because he opened the first boutique hotel in our country, which was Campton Place in San Francisco. Were they going to come from France? That didnt last long because Bill pretty quickly sold the hotel to a German company, and of course there was a real cultural shift for me and I left, and certainly that became my jumping off point for French Laundry. Feedback was the third discipline. This was the year before I went to Caf du Parc. But not only did I have to raise money from private partners, I had to buy the property. Thomas Keller: Rakel. I could only hope for the next 20 years that Im able to continue to dedicate and commit myself on a different level to our profession and to my teams and continue to offer them the ability, the platform to elevate themselves. What does the chef think I should choose? And those are his two chefs. It was such a moment for us because we represented our country. In my lifetime, in my career, Ive watched it grow from its infancy to where it is today, for good and for bad. It was a daunting task for us every day to produce this menu. It was fascinating, and again certainly we were very proud and honored. She became a restaurant manager. Paul Bocuse said it very well. It was something that made him really comfortable. But nonetheless I built my own little smoker out of an old refrigerator and cured and smoked my own salmon. It wasnt a difficult decision for me. And it was just one of those magical moments. In other words, you carve the turkey, you serve the food, and then you took the leftovers home. And it was really about Marines and their ability to stalk, their ability to be calm, their ability to pounce quickly and seize their prey. It was really only on Saturday and Sunday that I kind of had to support myself through eating and/or entertaining myself. Thomas Keller: Yes. And kitchens are run in that way because its all command response. The California-based chef has won nearly every culinary award imaginable; his cookbooks line the shelf of other chefs and passionate home. And his house was right next door to The French Laundry, where he lived and it was a common thing to go over there after work in the afternoon, at four or five oclock when the morning team would be finishing up, and theyd be over there on his front porch drinking beer out of cans, because he really liked canned beer as opposed to bottled beer. Thomas Keller: We began of course with caviar. It comes out in a beautiful pan. Best Restaurant in the World (French Laundry). You had your different areas for your knives, your forks, your spoons, things like that. Thomas Keller: Yeah. Everybody became more frugal during that time, as they do always in times of uneasiness and disruption in our economic climate. Theres many ways to entertain yourself without spending a lot of money. And then you work until 11:00 at night. Thomas Keller: This was a time in my life when I started to embrace the idea of doing things myself outside of the kitchen, having a garden. Theyre going to drive right by our restaurant and stop. How did you get started in the restaurant business? And one week I thought, Im going to ask him to bring them live, because as a chef I should really know what it feels like and of course how to slaughter an animal, and what better animal to slaughter than something that is relatively small? You know, go out and slaughter a cow or a pig would maybe have been a little more emotionally disturbing, but slaughtering a rabbit may be something that I could handle. So, we have a sous-chef thats responsible for the meats and the garde manger. No. And I thought, Wow, this may be a great opportunity for me. And he looks at me with a smirk in his eye and says, Gold. So hes still pushing. I was a year-and-a-half younger, therefore I had to be set in front of the dishwasher. In time, you and The French Laundry got your three stars from Michelin too. It was a perfect meal to celebrate a perfect moment with the best people in the world. Thomas Keller: I think people take it for granted that were just cooks in a kitchen, or youre just servers serving food, or youre just a sommelier serving wine. But Paul Bocuse, who has been an icon in our profession, someone who Ive always looked up to, somebody who changed the way our profession is perceived, somebody whos changed the way we eat, literally changed the way we eat, started a competition, international competition 30 28 years ago to bring the world together on an international level for a culinary competition that resulted in relationship building, in teaching, in awareness and camaraderie, and helping to expand the awareness of our profession around the world. Keller is the first and only American-born chef to hold multiple three-star ratings from the prestigious Michelin Guide and is the first American male chef to be designated a Chevalier of the Legion of Honor, Frances paramount honorary order. Out of those 400, 52 agreed to write a check, for a lot of different reasons, for any amount of money. Given free rein, he built a smokehouse to cure meats, developed relationships with local livestock purveyors and learned to cook entrails and offal under his old mentor, Roland Henin, who would drop by on occasional weekends. Thomas Keller: Per Se. Herb Caen came to dinner at The French Laundry. And he said, Okay, this is how much this is going to cost you. And I said, You know, Bob, I really dont have any money, but I have this olive oil. I put this olive oil on his desk and I told him about this olive oil and what I was doing with it and The French Laundry and all this. And he said, Oh, and by the way, Bouchon got one.. Thomas Keller: In 1992 I visited the Napa Valley from Los Angeles. And it was interesting, because at the time of the announcement, Laura and I were in France for I believe it was a Traditions et Qualit conference, which is a French association that we belong to. So five days a week, my meals were paid for. The new restaurant got off to a good start, but the stock market crash of 1987 cut deeply into their business. In 2004 they opened a Bouchon Bakery & Caf in Las Vegas and a new fine dining establishment, Per Se, in New York City. As a teenager, he fell in love with the art of French cooking and learned his craft working in restaurants up and down the East Coast before moving to France to complete his training. It was here he discovered his passion for cooking and perfection of the hollandaise sauce. But no, you went to work in the best restaurants. So between the two of them, they ignited what I believe we have, the resurgence of the farmer, the fisherman, the gardener and the forager. No problem. So we were always trying to fill the books in with his reservations. Thomas Keller: In the beginning, when Don and Sally Schmitt had the restaurant, there was one menu. I think that is really the essence of hospitality, is that you want to give people something that makes them happy, makes them feel good, nourishes them. He provided an introduction or foreword to The Vineyard Kitchen: Menus Inspired by the Seasons by Maria Helm Sinskey, "Happy in the Kitchen" by Michel Richard, "Indulge: 100 Perfect Desserts" by Claire Clark (head pastry chef at The French Laundry), the new publication of "Ma Gastronomie" by Fernand Point, "Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing" by Micheal Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn. And to keep herself busy, and of course to supply some income for the family, she worked in restaurants. And its up to that organization or that chef to define what youll do. And one thing they said, Its not open enough. They were only open four days. We had a beautiful foie gras to start, and we had I forget the dessert. He has established a collection of restaurants that sets a new paradigm within the hospitality profession, including The French Laundry, in Napa Valley, and Per Se, in New York, among others. Somebody will hire you. I wanted to make sure that I had somewhere to go to. I didnt recognize it until much later in my career, but I realized it and I understand that was part of the foundation of why I became a good cook and ultimately was able to become a good chef. In the late 1980s he opened Rakel in New York, but left for California a few years later. Keller was full of new ideas he was eager to implement, but he and the owner did not agree, and Keller moved to a smaller restaurant, Raphael, which he found far more congenial. Housed in a building once occupied by an actual laundry, the couple had named their restaurant The French Laundry. It was in the era of Chez Panisse, you know. In 2003, Richard Capizzi became the first pastry chef (not to mention the youngest) to ever sweep the awards at the U.S. You come back at 5:30. There he worked under the French chef Roland Henin, who inspired him to master the exacting art of French haute cuisine. Its that social engagement, that interaction around a dinner table that to me is the most important. She and her husband Don purchased the building in 1978 and converted it into a restaurant. And you know what, it was okay, either one. And we were so proud. The morel mushrooms, everything was just right, and I didnt appreciate it. My saving grace when I moved to Paris was my friend Serge Raoul, who allowed me to stay at his apartment. Thomas Keller: I learned that I needed to be a lot more responsible to the amount of money I spent on my products and how to use them. In the early 70s, when I really started cooking, for me it was really about the process. And it just didnt happen. Traditionally, in France, is that an unpaid position? Thomas Keller: On a trip to Napa Valley one spring day, Jonathan Waxman, who is a friend of mine who had opened a restaurant in New York and now is opening a restaurant here in Napa Valley. Hes got his cage. I was at work so I didnt have to spend any money entertaining myself. Thomas Keller: I think thats just it. A year later your skills your experience were increased, and if you made that same dish, it would be different. Its reaction is to jump. A beautiful time in my life. Its not just about getting something to eat. Thomas Keller: Mentor is its interesting because, again, these things have happened in my life kind of by coincidence or by some divine plan. Kellers mother managed a restaurant in the area, and both Thomas and his older brother Joseph worked in the restaurant kitchen from an early age. Thanksgiving is one of those moments thats truly about that experience around the table, that family, friends. And we thought this location was just like the perfect location. But there is a lot of work being done certainly in the past 20, 25 years that has helped us as a profession to really have an impact. He had dinner at The French Laundry and he wrote three paragraphs about The French Laundry. Thomas Keller: I think its helped me understand and analyze what I do, and try to attach other examples of other professions to what I do, in trying to understand and elevate our profession. Where were their parameters for that? And I realized that my window wasnt covered with dust. The highest priority for us is that we are able to reach our own expectations. Is that hierarchy something that you observed in France? I had already closed two restaurants. Its Jean Luc Naret, who is the director of Michelin. After his second summer at La Rive, he decided to try his luck in New York City and was hired as chef at Raouls. Im not sure which one. With Paul Bocuses son Jerome and their fellow chef Daniel Boulud, Keller founded the Bocuse dOr USA Foundation (Mentor) in 2008 to inspire culinary excellence in young professionals and preserve the traditions and quality of classic cuisine in America. Keller and the Bocuse family hoped to see young American chefs compete successfully in this competition, but a number of years would pass before American chefs would reach the winners circle. He wrote his social column every day. Mr. Keller thinks, at least for him, a change may be in order. His employers there, Pierre and Anne-Marie Latuberne, recommended him to Ren and Paulette Macary, who operated a restaurant of their own, La Rive, in Catskill, New York during the summer season. So I didnt have rent to pay. Jan Birnbaum was the first. His employers there, Pierre and Anne-Marie Latuberne, recommended him to Ren and Paulette Macary, who operated a restaurant of their own, La Rive, in Catskill, New York during the summer season. I remember she served me on that day. We did lunch and dinner. On the other hand, we look at it as a sports franchise as well. You had to get the glassware to the bartenders so they could do their job. The idea of service is so pertinent to both worlds, military and culinary. When I wrote The French Laundry Cookbook, it was an important story for me to tell. You take a break at 3:00. There were no quantities. Sometimes simplicity is best. So I stayed in New York for about a year looking for something to do, never really finding anything. Thomas Keller: At 4:00 in the afternoon, we were on the West (Left) Bank, in front of one of the department stores over there I think Samaritaine or some one of the great department stores of Paris and the phone rings. We changed every day. Sample. Thomas Keller: I dont know the literal translation of it, but its an observer. It was a restaurant that was extraordinarily consistent. My oldest brother was here at the same time. Those were things that he was familiar with so and just telling stories. He started his culinary journey young -- at 15, he was already working as an apprentice pastry chef at the Relais of Poitiers hotel. The chef has recently come under fire for praising a major Donald Trump donor. And still, it wasnt necessarily something that was recognized as a true profession. And I really have to thank those who nominated me: Daniel Boulud, Paul Bocuse, Jerome. Certainly, working in French kitchens was the same for me. At that point you begin overeating because you want to try each one of them. Therefore you have to pay them. I could go anywhere in the world and be a cook. The French government named him a Chevalier of the Legion of Honor in recognition of his lifelong commitment to the traditions of French cuisine and his role in elevating culinary art in America. Thomas Keller: That they do. Its always been an important part of our culture, that consistency. So we lasted about 12 months. The former French Laundry Chef de Cuisine Timothy Hollingsworth won the Bocuse d'Or USA semi-finals in 2008, and represented the U.S. in the world finals in January 2009 under Keller's supervision where he placed 6th, equaling the best performance of the U.S. in the contest to date. It was about that physical activity that was so compelling for me. Do you relate your attraction to the discipline and camaraderie of the kitchen to your fathers career as a Marine? If I wasnt, I learned it from her. Thomas Keller: Thank you. So our job is to make sure that were choosing those ingredients of the moment. Iconic Dishes It was an emotional moment. I think the single most important thing you can do the single most important decision you make when youre making a reservation to a restaurant is not what restaurant youre going to, but who youre going with. A chef in France is the head of a specific area. A community college in Palm Beach. On a 1992 visit to the Napa Valley, he was introduced to Don and Sally Schmitt, owners of a small restaurant in Yountville, a small town in the heart of the wine-growing region. I have to say that period of my life and that period of my career in France was so, so important to who I am today and really helped me understand a lot of things about running a restaurant that have supported my career and my success. Living It Is Harder. And that became my inspiration every morning, because I had a dream to buy The French Laundry. It was a wonderful restaurant. And he was always the one who was out there getting reservations for the restaurant. Many times the advice was, Well just go. The failure of this restaurant did not dissuade you from haute cuisine. So between private placement, commercial bank loan, and an SBA loan over the period, and with the help of Don and Sally Schmitt and Bob Sutcliffe, my attorney, as well as the 52 partners, we were able to put together enough money to buy The French Laundry, and on May 1, 1994 we finally closed on the deal. In 1999, Thomas Keller published The French Laundry Cookbook, which he considers his definitive book on cuisine. So he reached in the cage, pulls a rabbit out, both legs, has one of those little baseball clubs, knocks it on its head, pins the rabbit to the side of the barn, slits its throat, dresses the rabbit in about five minutes. This is perhaps one of chef Keller's most famous dishes, a sabayon of pearl tapioca, beau soleil oysters and white sturgeon caviar. He was the first hotelier to really bring in a great restaurant with a great chef and that was Bradley Ogden. We just received three stars. Thomas was considered too young to work as a cook so he started as a dishwasher. And it was fascinating because without realizing it, it inspired you to prepare the recipe. Michelin was coming to America and we didnt know what was going to happen. [7] Keller spent nineteen months raising $1.2million from acquaintances and investors to purchase the restaurant, then re-opened it in 1994. And they would just be, you know, they were 50 years younger than he was, and he would just be telling them stories and theyd just be like listening on the edge of their seats, and that was one of the favorite things that he did. And if theyre not better than you, then you havent done a very good job. Was it a restaurant that was progressive and contemporary? An executive chef would be somebody that would be in a position in a hotel for example, or where there are many different restaurants, and he would be the executive chef over all of the chef de cuisines from each different food and beverage outlet for example.
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